Comme des Garçons, the avant-garde fashion label founded by Rei Kawakubo in 1969, has long been a force of innovation and rebellion within the fashion industry. The brand’s runway shows are not Comme Des Garcons merely exhibitions of clothing but provocative, conceptual performances that challenge traditional ideas of beauty, fashion, and identity. With every collection, Comme des Garçons consistently reinvents fashion and pushes the boundaries of creativity, creating moments that live on in the minds of fashion enthusiasts and critics alike.
The Impact of Rei Kawakubo on Fashion
Rei Kawakubo’s influence on fashion cannot be overstated. When she debuted Comme des Garçons in the 1970s, she offered a stark contrast to the high-gloss, polished fashion seen in Paris and Milan. Her designs were irregular, deconstructed, and often deliberately unfinished. Instead of creating clothes to flatter the human form, Kawakubo used fashion as a medium to explore art, culture, and politics. Her designs were layered with meaning, often challenging social norms and provoking conversation about the body, gender, and the idea of beauty itself.
The runway shows that Comme des Garçons holds are unique in that they are not just about showcasing the latest clothing but about creating a spectacle that offers a deeper commentary on the world at large. Each show becomes a platform for experimentation, where Kawakubo often blurs the line between fashion and art. There have been numerous iconic moments on the runway that have cemented Comme des Garçons as one of the most exciting and thought-provoking fashion houses in history.
The 1981 Paris Debut: A New Era of Fashion
One of the most iconic moments in Comme des Garçons’ history was its debut collection in Paris in 1981. At a time when haute couture was still largely defined by the grandiose opulence of designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Dior, Kawakubo’s collection was a breath of fresh air—unapologetically raw and rebellious. The show featured models dressed in dark, oversized, and deconstructed garments. The pieces were unflattering, asymmetrical, and often looked like they had been made from fragments of old clothes. Kawakubo’s intent was clear: she wanted to deconstruct traditional notions of beauty and bring a sense of chaos to the runway. This radical approach was not widely embraced at first, with many critics questioning the wearability and beauty of the clothes. But this collection ultimately signaled a shift in the fashion industry toward greater experimentation and conceptual design.
The 1997 “Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body” Collection
Another pivotal moment in the history of Comme des Garçons was the 1997 "Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body" collection, which brought forward a significant shift in how fashion could be used to comment on the human body. The collection featured exaggerated, bulbous silhouettes that appeared to distort the models' natural figures. The dresses, designed to create an almost architectural form, were made of voluminous materials that transformed the body into something otherworldly. The garments challenged the ideal of the slim, feminine figure and introduced a new understanding of the body in relation to clothing. Rather than trying to enhance or hide the shape of the body, Comme des Garçons made the body itself the focus of the design, presenting a radically different vision of beauty.
This collection, like many others, sparked debates about body image and the role of fashion in shaping perceptions of the human form. It also pushed the boundaries of what was acceptable in terms of fit and silhouette, forever altering the landscape of fashion design.
The 2012 “Lumps and Bumps” Collection
In 2012, Comme des Garçons once again shocked the fashion world with its “Lumps and Bumps” collection. This collection featured clothing designed to intentionally highlight imperfections in the Comme Des Garcons Hoodie body, such as bulges and lumps. The runway was filled with models who wore pieces that exaggerated these features, creating an almost surreal look. The garments were heavily textured, with an emphasis on fabric manipulation, and each model appeared to wear a different, distorted version of the human form. The designs were an exploration of how fashion could challenge conventional beauty standards and portray the body in all its raw, unfiltered reality.
Critics and audiences were divided on the collection, with some praising Kawakubo for her boldness and others questioning the practicality of the designs. However, the show was undeniably a statement about embracing imperfections and rejecting the idea that beauty must conform to a narrow set of standards. Like much of Comme des Garçons’ work, the 2012 show was an exercise in pushing the boundaries of what fashion could represent.
The 2019 “Art of the In-Between” Collection
One of the most recent iconic moments in the history of Comme des Garçons occurred in 2019, when Rei Kawakubo presented her "Art of the In-Between" collection. The runway was filled with pieces that existed in a realm between two states—between femininity and masculinity, between minimalism and maximalism, between art and fashion. The collection was a celebration of contradictions, with garments that combined elaborate ruffles, sculptural forms, and unexpected materials, creating an otherworldly aesthetic.
The 2019 collection also paid homage to the art world, with many of the designs resembling abstract sculptures more than traditional garments. The models wore face-covering hoods, giving them an almost ghostly, otherworldly presence as they strutted down the runway. This collection once again exemplified Kawakubo’s commitment to challenging conventional ideas of what fashion is and can be.
Conclusion
Comme des Garçons’ runway shows have continually set the stage for some of the most groundbreaking and thought-provoking moments in fashion history. Rei Kawakubo’s commitment to deconstructing and redefining the fashion industry has led to numerous collections that have left an indelible mark on both the fashion world and popular culture. Through her bold, conceptual designs, Comme des Garçons has pushed the limits of what fashion can be, making it more than just clothing—it is a form of art, a vehicle for social commentary, and a space for limitless creativity. Each show, each collection, is a testament to the power of fashion to challenge and transform the way we perceive the world.